Livestock · LPS Corals

Torch Coral

Euphyllia glabrescens

Long, glowing tentacles tipped like torches — one of the most coveted LPS corals.

Difficulty: IntermediateLPS coral

The torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) is the most coveted (and priciest) of the flowing Euphyllia — long, glowing, torch-tipped tentacles in dazzling morphs. Care is like the hammer, with two sharper edges: it's the strongest stinger of the group (give it real space), and it's the most prone to a sudden “brown jelly” crash if stressed.

Good to know: Strong stinger; keep well spaced. Watch for "brown jelly" if stressed.
📊 What keepers actually ask: Two things dominate torch talk: “how much space does a torch need?” (more than other Euphyllia — it out-stings them) and the dreaded “brown jelly.” We cover both up front.

Care at a glance

Colony / formBranching skeleton with long, individually-tipped “torch” tentacles; prized colour morphs.
LightingLow–moderate — about 50–150 PAR.
Water flowLow-to-moderate, gentle and indirect. Torch polyps stay retracted or tear in too-strong flow.
PlacementLower-to-mid rock or sand, gentle flow — and give it MORE space than other Euphyllia: keep it well clear of all other corals (it can sting even other Euphyllia).
Temperature75–82°F (24–28°C).
pH8.1–8.4.
Specific gravity1.023–1.026 (reef-standard ≈35 ppt).
Other targetsLPS build a stony skeleton — keep alkalinity (≈8–11 dKH), calcium (≈400–450 ppm) and magnesium (≈1300–1450 ppm) stable. Torches are especially unhappy with swings.
FeedingLargely photosynthetic; a subdued eater that takes the occasional meaty morsel — don't overfeed.
Growth & spreadAdds heads over time; slower and pricier than frogspawn, so most keepers grow it as a treasured colony.
Natural rangeIndo-Pacific reefs.
Beginner-friendly, done right. Rated intermediate — not because its basic care is hard (it's Euphyllia care), but because it's expensive, the strongest-stinging of the group, and notoriously prone to “brown jelly”: a fast tissue-melting decline when stressed, shipped hard, or damaged. Buy a healthy, established frag, give it space and gentle flow, keep chemistry stable, and don't chase the rarest morph as your first torch.
Keep those numbers steady. This coral's alkalinity, calcium and magnesium only keep it safe when they're stable. If one reads low, our free reef dosing calculator works out exactly how much to add for your water volume — and splits it safely over days.
Where does it go? Light, flow and placement make or break a coral. Our free coral placement guide shows the PAR, flow and tank zone this coral wants — and what else thrives in the same spot.

The fish store gets these wrong

Common myths, kindly corrected — no shame for having believed them.

  • “Torches get along with my other Euphyllia.” Not reliably — torches have the strongest sting in the group and can damage even hammers and frogspawn. Give a torch its own space.
  • “A pricey torch is a hardy torch.” Price is about colour/rarity, not hardiness. Torches are actually the most brown-jelly-prone Euphyllia — start with a healthy, well-established frag, not the rarest one.

Before you buy

  • Buy a healthy, established frag with good polyp extension — avoid stressed/shipped-hard pieces.
  • Reserve extra space around it (it out-stings other corals, even Euphyllia).
  • Gentle indirect flow; stable alk/Ca/Mg.
  • Don't make a rare, expensive morph your first torch.

Signs something's wrong

A struggling coral is almost always telling you about light, flow or water — here's what to watch for:

  • A brown, jelly-like slime spreading over the head (“brown jelly”) — act immediately: remove the colony, cut away affected tissue, dip it, and improve water quality; it can consume a torch in days.
  • Tentacles staying retracted/deflated — too much flow, an alkalinity swing, or stress; ease flow and check chemistry.
  • Receding flesh / exposed skeleton — a chemistry swing or too much light too fast.

Never

  • Never place a torch close to other corals (including other Euphyllia) — it stings hardest.
  • Never ignore the first sign of brown jelly — it moves fast.
  • Never put it in strong flow or let alkalinity swing.

Common torch coral questions

How much space does a torch coral need from other corals?

More than other Euphyllia. Torches have the strongest sweeper sting of the group and can damage even hammers and frogspawn, so give a torch its own clear space away from all neighbours.

What is "brown jelly" and how do I deal with it?

Brown jelly is a fast tissue-melting decline that torches (and other Euphyllia) are prone to when stressed, shipped hard, or damaged — a brown, jelly-like slime spreads over the head and can consume it in days. Act immediately: remove the colony, cut away affected tissue, dip it, and improve water quality.

Are torch corals hard to keep?

Their basic care is standard Euphyllia care (moderate light, gentle flow, stable chemistry), but they're rated intermediate because they're expensive, the strongest stinger, and the most brown-jelly-prone. Buy a healthy established frag and give it space.

Why is a torch coral so expensive?

Price reflects the colour and rarity of the morph, not how hardy it is. A cheaper, common torch is often a better first one than a rare, pricey morph.

What light and flow do torch corals need?

Low-to-moderate light (about 50–150 PAR) and gentle, indirect low-to-moderate flow — too much flow keeps the long polyps retracted and can tear them.


Sources & further reading

This guide was written and fact-checked against these authorities. It's honest, general guidance — not a diagnosis, and not a substitute for an aquatic vet or your own test kit:

Written and fact-checked by The Coralkin Team against marine-aquarist sources — if your torch coral is struggling, it's almost always a light, flow or water-chemistry issue — check those first and ask an experienced reefer. We never guess a care number.

🔬 Review status: team-written and fact-checked against cited sources · not yet reviewed by a marine vet. How we research & fact-check →

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