The skunk cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) is one of the most useful — and entertaining — animals in a reef tank: it sets up a “cleaning station” and picks parasites and dead skin off fish that queue up for the service. It's reef-safe, hardy once settled, and the main things to respect are that it's an invertebrate (no copper, slow drip-acclimation) and that it does best as a single shrimp or a bonded pair, not a crowd.
Care at a glance
| Adult size | ≈2–2.4 in (5–6 cm). |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | Up to ≈3 years. |
| Minimum tank | 20 gallons for one; 30+ for a pair or small group. |
| Temperature | 75–82°F (24–28°C). |
| pH | 8.1–8.4. |
| Specific gravity | 1.023–1.026 (reef-standard ≈35 ppt). |
| Other targets | Standard reef calcium and alkalinity support healthy moulting; like all inverts it has zero tolerance for copper. |
| Diet | Omnivore — “cleans” parasites and dead skin off willing fish, scavenges detritus, and takes almost any meaty food (mysis, frozen, pellets). |
| Temperament | Peaceful toward fish and corals; best kept singly or as a bonded pair — crowding several into a small tank causes aggression, especially around moulting. |
| Reef-safe | Yes — reef-safe as long as it's fed. |
| Natural range | Indo-Pacific. |
The fish store gets these wrong
Common myths, kindly corrected — no shame for having believed them.
- “The shrimp died — there's its body.” That clear, empty shell is almost always a moult (they shed every 2–3 weeks). Look for the live shrimp hiding nearby while its new shell hardens.
- “More cleaner shrimp = more cleaning.” In a small tank, several adults turn aggressive, especially after moulting — one shrimp or a bonded pair is the reliable setup.
- “It's a fish, so normal medications are fine.” It's an invertebrate — copper-based medications that treat fish will kill it. Never medicate its display tank with copper.
Before you buy
- A stable, cycled tank — inverts don't tolerate swings; drip-acclimate over an hour+.
- Never any copper in the tank now or later (it's lethal to inverts).
- Plan for one shrimp or a bonded pair, not a crowd.
- Expect regular moults — the empty shell is normal.
Signs something's wrong
A struggling invert is usually telling you about water quality, acclimation, or (for shrimp and crabs) a fresh moult — here's what to watch for:
- Lying on its side / not moving and NOT a shed shell — check salinity, and whether copper or another med reached the tank.
- Failed moult (stuck exoskeleton, missing limbs) — usually a chemistry problem or poor nutrition; stabilise parameters and feed well.
- Hiding constantly and not cleaning — often too-aggressive tankmates or an unstable/newly-set-up tank.
Work through the Skunk Cleaner Shrimp trouble card — the water, light, flow and pest checks that fix almost every struggling invert.
Never
- Never dose copper-based medications in a tank with shrimp — it's lethal.
- Never drop it straight in — drip-acclimate slowly (salinity shock kills inverts).
- Never panic and remove a “body” that's actually a moult — the live shrimp is nearby.
- Never crowd several into a small tank — they'll fight.
Common skunk cleaner shrimp questions
Is my cleaner shrimp dead — I found its body?
Almost certainly not. Skunk cleaner shrimp moult (shed a complete, clear exoskeleton) roughly every 2–3 weeks, and the empty shell looks exactly like a dead shrimp. Look for the live one hiding nearby while its new shell hardens.
Are cleaner shrimp reef-safe?
Yes — Lysmata amboinensis is reef-safe and won't harm corals, as long as it's kept fed. It scavenges detritus and cleans fish rather than picking at corals.
Can I keep more than one cleaner shrimp?
A single shrimp or a bonded pair is the safe bet. Several adults crowded into a small tank can turn aggressive toward each other, especially just after moulting — give them space (30+ gallons) if you want a group.
How do I acclimate a cleaner shrimp?
Slowly. Like all inverts, they're very sensitive to salinity and chemistry swings, so drip-acclimate over an hour or more before adding them, and make sure no copper medications are (or ever will be) in the tank.
Do cleaner shrimp really clean fish?
Yes — they set up a “cleaning station” and pick parasites and dead skin off fish that come to be cleaned. It's genuinely useful and one of the most entertaining behaviours in a reef tank.
🐚 Did you know? — Skunk Cleaner Shrimp fun facts
Little true delights about the skunk cleaner shrimp — each one checked against a named source, no reef-store folklore.
- Skunk cleaner shrimp set up cleaning stations where fish line up to have parasites and dead skin picked off, and this tidying-up makes up a large part of the shrimp's diet. Wikipedia
- Every mature cleaner shrimp is both male and female at once, a rare arrangement called protandric simultaneous hermaphroditism that is unique to Lysmata among all the decapod crustaceans. Wikipedia
- When a pair mates they take turns playing the male and the female, so with the next moult their roles, and their apparent sex, simply reverse. Wikipedia
Sources & further reading
This guide was written and fact-checked against these authorities. It's honest, general guidance — not a diagnosis, and not a substitute for an aquatic vet or your own test kit:
- Shrimp and Snail Breeder — Lysmata amboinensis Detailed Guide — size, lifespan, tank, temp/pH/SG, diet, grouping, moulting interval
- Quality Marine — The Kind of Skunk You Want — cleaning behaviour, reef care, copper/acclimation sensitivity
- Aquarium Specialty — Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) — reef-safe, care overview
Written and fact-checked by The Coralkin Team against marine-aquarist sources — if your skunk cleaner shrimp is struggling, it's almost always water quality, acclimation or a moult — check those first and ask an experienced reefer. We never guess a care number.
🔬 Review status: team-written and fact-checked against cited sources · not yet reviewed by a marine vet. How we research & fact-check →
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