Coralkin honest saltwater & reef care

🩺 Emergency Vet-Prep

Six Line Wrasse Emergency Vet-Prep

Marine vets are rare and it's easy to freeze in a crisis. This is the one page to have ready — how to find a vet, what to bring, what to tell them, and the questions to ask. Print it, keep it with your care notes.

Black & white saves ink and prints cleanly on any printer.

Not sure it's serious yet? Run the symptom checker or the water-test checker first — many worries turn out to be a husbandry fix.

Coralkin honest saltwater & reef care · coralkin.com
Six Line Wrasse — Vet-Prep

🔍 Find an aquatic vet

  • Search the WAVMA (World Aquatic Veterinary Medical Association) directory — or search "aquatic / exotics vet near me".
  • Call ahead: "Do you treat marine fish?" Few vets do — find and save one now, while things are calm.
  • Ask the exam fee when you call — knowing the cost up front removes the money-panic in a crisis.

📇 Fill this in now

My vet
My six line wrasse
What I'm seeing

🚨 Is this an emergency now?

Quarantine and get help promptly if you notice any of these:

  • White salt-grain spots, flashing, or rapid gill-breathing (possible ich or velvet).
  • Cloudy skin patches, clamped fins, or gasping at the surface.
  • Hiding and refusing food for days, or a hollow belly.
  • Any new fish added without quarantine.

🚗 On the way / while you wait

✅ Do

  • Test your water NOW — salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity and temperature — and correct anything obviously off.
  • Move the fish to a hospital / quarantine tank if you have one.
  • Keep it in its own stable tank water.
  • Keep the tank calm and dim.

⛔ Don't

  • Don't dose the display tank with OTC or shop “cures” blindly — copper and many meds are harmful to inverts and corals, and they mask the real cause.
  • Don't make a big, sudden parameter swing.
  • Don't add anything you can't explain the reason for.

🎒 What to bring

  • A recent, full water test — salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature (and ammonia/nitrite/pH if you have them).
  • Photos plus a short video of what you’re seeing — it may not show it in the clinic.
  • A note of your system and how you feed.
  • Only if advised: the animal itself, in its own tank water.

🗣️ What to tell the vet / expert

Adult size
About 3–4 in (7.5–10 cm).
Minimum tank
~30–55 gallons with plenty of live rock to forage through and hide in.
Temperature
72–78°F (22–26°C).
pH
8.1–8.4.
Specific gravity
1.023–1.026.
Other targets
Lots of rockwork to hunt through and sleep in; keep nitrate low.
Diet
Carnivore — frozen mysis, brine and krill plus small marine preparations, 2–3× a day. It also hunts pests (pyramidellid “clam-parasite” snails, flatworms, bristleworms, pods) — but this varies a lot: some are voracious pest-hunters, others ignore pests once used to easy frozen food.
Temperament
Peaceful as a juvenile, but develops a real semi-aggressive, territorial streak with age — it harasses newcomers and fish of similar shape. Keep ONE per tank, and add it LAST, after the calmer fish are settled.
Reef-safe
Reef-safe with corals — but not fully invert-safe: it can pick at ornamental crabs, small starfish, clams, and desirable pods/small shrimp.
Natural range
Indo-West Pacific and the Red Sea.

⚕️ Most marine illness starts with water quality or acclimation, not infection — bring a full set of parameters (salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature). Marine-fish medicine is specialised and few vets treat fish, so call ahead. Copper and many OTC 'cures' are toxic to invertebrates and corals — never dose them in a reef display; treat a sick fish in a separate quarantine/hospital tank, and tell the vet exactly what you've already added.

❓ Questions to ask

  • Do you treat marine fish?
  • What are the likely causes — and could my water or acclimation be the cause?
  • What is the treatment plan, the likely cost, and what should I watch for?
  • How do I prevent this happening again?