🔍 Find an aquatic vet
- Search the WAVMA (World Aquatic Veterinary Medical Association) directory — or search "aquatic / exotics vet near me".
- Call ahead: "Do you treat marine fish?" Few vets do — find and save one now, while things are calm.
- Ask the exam fee when you call — knowing the cost up front removes the money-panic in a crisis.
📇 Fill this in now
🚨 Is this an emergency now?
Quarantine and get help promptly if you notice any of these:
- White spots like grains of salt, or rapid gill-breathing, flashing and scratching (possible ich or velvet — velvet moves fast, so act quickly).
- A cloudy film or patches on the skin, clamped fins, or hanging at the surface gasping.
- Refusing food for more than a day or two, or an obviously hollow, sunken belly.
- Any new fish added without quarantine — the single most common way disease enters a tank.
🚗 On the way / while you wait
✅ Do
- Test your water NOW — salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity and temperature — and correct anything obviously off.
- Move the fish to a hospital / quarantine tank if you have one.
- Keep it in its own stable tank water.
- Keep the tank calm and dim.
⛔ Don't
- Don't dose the display tank with OTC or shop “cures” blindly — copper and many meds are harmful to inverts and corals, and they mask the real cause.
- Don't make a big, sudden parameter swing.
- Don't add anything you can't explain the reason for.
🎒 What to bring
- A recent, full water test — salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature (and ammonia/nitrite/pH if you have them).
- Photos plus a short video of what you’re seeing — it may not show it in the clinic.
- A note of your system and how you feed.
- Only if advised: the animal itself, in its own tank water.
🗣️ What to tell the vet / expert
- Adult size
- About 3–3.5 in (7.6–9 cm); up to ~4 in (10 cm). Females are noticeably larger.
- Lifespan
- A long-term commitment — 10+ years, and 15+ with excellent, stable care.
- Minimum tank
- ~15–20 gallons for one or a bonded pair; 30+ gallons for a reef (sources differ — BRS lists 15 gal, TFH recommends 30+). Bigger, more stable water is more forgiving for a new keeper.
- Temperature
- 75–82°F (24–28°C).
- pH
- 8.1–8.4.
- Specific gravity
- 1.020–1.025.
- Other targets
- Nitrate under ~20 ppm; stable salinity matters more than a perfect number.
- Diet
- Omnivore — a quality marine pellet or flake as the staple, plus frozen mysis and brine shrimp. Small amounts 2–3 times a day; remove uneaten food.
- Temperament
- Hardy and generally peaceful in a community — but territorial toward other clownfish, including its own kind.
- Reef-safe
- Yes — safe with soft, LPS and SPS corals and with inverts. One reason it's the classic first reef fish.
- Natural range
- Indo-Pacific — eastern Indian Ocean through Australasia (Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, the Philippines, Taiwan, NW Australia), north to southern Japan.
⚕️ Most marine illness starts with water quality or acclimation, not infection — bring a full set of parameters (salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature). Marine-fish medicine is specialised and few vets treat fish, so call ahead. Copper and many OTC 'cures' are toxic to invertebrates and corals — never dose them in a reef display; treat a sick fish in a separate quarantine/hospital tank, and tell the vet exactly what you've already added.
❓ Questions to ask
- Do you treat marine fish?
- What are the likely causes — and could my water or acclimation be the cause?
- What is the treatment plan, the likely cost, and what should I watch for?
- How do I prevent this happening again?