⚠️ Safety first — read this
A carpet anemone's sting is strong enough to catch and eat fish — even the clownfish you bought to host it — and it can sting a human. Never let one get pulled into a powerhead: a ruptured carpet can crash the whole tank.
🔍 Find an aquatic vet
- Search the WAVMA (World Aquatic Veterinary Medical Association) directory — or search "aquatic / exotics vet near me".
- Call ahead: "Do you treat marine fish?" Few vets do — find and save one now, while things are calm.
- Ask the exam fee when you call — knowing the cost up front removes the money-panic in a crisis.
📇 Fill this in now
🚨 Is this an emergency now?
Quarantine and get help promptly if you notice any of these:
- Mouth gaping open and staying open — distress.
- Bleaching or going pale — zooxanthellae loss; a badly bleached carpet often won't recover.
- Slowly shrinking and “fading away” — the classic giant-carpet decline.
- Won't eat, spits food, or shows mushy/disintegrating tissue — often a transit infection; and a detached, drifting foot is heading for a pump.
🚗 On the way / while you wait
✅ Do
- Test your water NOW — salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity and temperature — and correct anything obviously off.
- Move the fish to a hospital / quarantine tank if you have one.
- Keep it in its own stable tank water.
- Keep the tank calm and dim.
⛔ Don't
- Don't dose the display tank with OTC or shop “cures” blindly — copper and many meds are harmful to inverts and corals, and they mask the real cause.
- Don't make a big, sudden parameter swing.
- Don't add anything you can't explain the reason for.
🎒 What to bring
- A recent, full water test — salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature (and ammonia/nitrite/pH if you have them).
- Photos plus a short video of what you’re seeing — it may not show it in the clinic.
- A note of your system and how you feed.
- Only if advised: the animal itself, in its own tank water.
🗣️ What to tell the vet / expert
- Adult size
- Big — commonly ~1–2 ft across, and exceptional Haddon's carpets approach 3 ft. (A mini/“maxi-mini” carpet, S. tapetum, stays 4–6 in.)
- Lifespan
- Not well documented — anemones can be very long-lived when healthy, but no reliable captive figure exists, so don't count on a set number.
- Minimum tank
- ~30 gallons is the absolute floor for Haddon's; a large, mature system is strongly preferred given the adult size and the deep sand bed it needs.
- Lighting
- High — roughly PAR 200–300+ for Haddon's (a mini carpet takes ~150–250). Photosynthetic, so bright, stable light is essential.
- Water flow
- Low-to-moderate, gentle turbulent flow; cut the flow right down while it settles and acclimates.
- Placement
- A SAND-dweller — Haddon's buries its foot in a deep 3–5 in sand bed (the giant carpet anchors to solid material set within the sand). Place it BEFORE other livestock, and screen every pump: a wandering carpet in a powerhead can rupture and crash the tank.
- Temperature
- ~75–82°F (24–28°C) — stability matters more than the exact set-point.
- pH
- 8.1–8.4.
- Specific gravity
- 1.023–1.025.
- Other targets
- dKH ~8–12; zero copper, as with any invert.
- Feeding
- Photosynthetic PLUS an aggressive meaty eater — spot-feed mysis, brine, chopped shrimp/clam/mussel or silversides cut smaller than the mouth, roughly 1–3× a week. Don't overfeed.
- Temperament
- Extremely powerful, sticky sting — it is a genuine predator that catches and eats fish, and it's one of the few anemones that can sting a human. A large, stressed one can discharge and harm the whole tank.
- Reef-safe
- No — not reliably reef-safe. Its potent sting harms corals and other anemones, and it eats fish and inverts. Treat it as a species-display animal, not a mixed-reef citizen.
- Natural range
- Indo-Pacific (and Red Sea).
⚕️ Most marine illness starts with water quality or acclimation, not infection — bring a full set of parameters (salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, temperature). Marine-fish medicine is specialised and few vets treat fish, so call ahead. Copper and many OTC 'cures' are toxic to invertebrates and corals — never dose them in a reef display; treat a sick fish in a separate quarantine/hospital tank, and tell the vet exactly what you've already added.
❓ Questions to ask
- Do you treat marine fish?
- What are the likely causes — and could my water or acclimation be the cause?
- What is the treatment plan, the likely cost, and what should I watch for?
- How do I prevent this happening again?